Samurai Sushi, Sushi Scandal

The New York Times recently published a couple articles about restaurants and supermarkets selling mislabeled fish, and the reaction is has created amongst high-profile New York restauranters. While Nashville is thousands of miles from the New York culinary scene, it would seem that Nashville isn’t without its own sushi switcheroo. With the popularity and prevalence of sushi these days, it would seem that there would be a high standard to satisfy for sushi palates. People are eating more sushi, so they would logically demand better quality sushi. It seems, however, that Samurai Sushi is trying to work around the demand for high quality sushi.

Sometimes the best thing to get when trying someplace else is a little bit of everything. That’s why there are appetizer samplers and combination dinners. I ordered the special combo at Samurai, which was supposed to come with 7 pieces of “fish sushi” and a crunchy shrimp roll ( shrimp tempura, roe, panko flakes, and mayo (?!)). When the dish came out, it came with four pieces of fish nigiri, a tamago nigiri, a shrimp nigiri, and a krab nigiri.

Krab. Not crab. Placed on top of rice, no wasabi underneath, and wrapped in nori (seaweed). I’m no sushi expert, but like Eric Ripert said, “It is impossible to mislead people who have knowledge.” Anyone who’s eaten crab will know krab is a terrible crab substitute; it’s the hot dog of seafood–made with all the parts that people don’t eat. How does someone try to pass off krab as 1. real seafood and 2. a topping for nigiri? I would’ve preferred to have another piece of tamago (egg) nigiri instead of trying to swallow krab. If a place is going to pass this off as a sushi ingredient, they would do better to fry it up, cover it in rice, top it with spicy mayo, and call it a crab roll. But it doesn’t matter to me. I won’t be coming back here.

Additional notes: it took them about 40 minutes to come out with my krab sushi. Their service was lacking as much as their sushi.

Samurai Sushi

2209 Elliston Pl # A

Nashville, TN

(615) 320-5438‎

Anatomy of a Sushi Buffet – Rusan’s

There are few things in this world that spell out culinary and gastronomic disaster; a sushi-lunch buffet for $10 is one of them. Just think about it: a normal order of fresh nigiri from an above-average sushi bar will run about $3 or $4 for run-of-the-mill fish like sake (salmon), hamachi (yellowtail), etc. So how does one profitably run a sushi buffet that costs $10 to get in? Easy. Just get rid of the fish (or at least the fresh fish, anyways). Even though rice and other grains are continually soaring higher than ever, it still costs a restaurant just about a couple dollars max to fill someone up on rice for lunch.

So here’s a basic breakdown on how you can identify a sushi buffet (please refer to the diagram above):

The first thing you’ll see is the overwhelming amount of rice. I’ll admit that I was a little surprised that Rusan’s even had pieces of nigiri sushi out (about 5% of the available sushi) because the ratio of fish:rice is considerably higher than the ratio required for a roll, which usually ranges from about small to zero. But let’s look at the rolls, because it’s easier to see that ratio; there’s quite a lot of rice on the outside (regular unseasoned non-sushi rice, by the way). This is usually representative of the sushi selection at buffets. Sometimes they’ll try to trick the consumer by frying the roll in tempura batter to disguise the rice, but they’re actually getting even more carbohydrate mass than regular over-riced rolls. But in the end, all that matters is that the consumer eats enough rice to feel full for just pennies on the restaurant’s behalf. Note: this is why there’s usually extra charges for not finishing your rice.

Second of all is the addition of extra sources of carbs on the plate. In the back you’ll notice a pile of noodles. This is a good way of making consumers think “Wow! There’s a huge selection here!” In fact, there are usually three different choices of carbohydrates at Rusan’s for lunch, ranging from veggie fried rice to veggie lo mein. The key is to not include meat because it’s expensive.

Third is the use of low quality fish when and if it must be used. If you look carefully at the toro, you’ll see that it’s the color of a neon pink highlighter. I usually make it a rule to not eat neon-colored foods. I feel healthier that way. Other money-saving fillings that can be, and usually are, used in lieu of fish are: cream cheese, tempura shrimp, barbecue pork, krab, avacado, and cucumber. The emphasis is on cream cheese at RuSan’s. Maybe people really do like it, though. In that case, it works for everyone.

So in summary, the anatomy of a sushi buffet is highly distinguishable from other dining establishments, whether they be buffet or not. The most notable characteristic is the overwhelming amount of carbohydrates (i.e. rice and noodles). I hope this helps you in identifying any potential sushi buffets out there (and staying away from them, too).

Rusan’s Sushi and Seafood

505 12th Ave S

Nashville, TN

(615) 252-8787‎